中國烹飪《川菜》
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2008-05-22 17:52:37 编辑 删除

归档在 傳統川菜 | 浏览 593 次 | 评论 0 条

传统川菜馆的基本风格
                                               文 汪世容
川菜的特点与风格长期以来,各地由于选用不同的原料、配料,采用不同的烹调方法,因而形成了各自的独特风味和不同的川菜流派。在不同的历史时期,根据不同的分类标准,可将川菜划分为不同的流派。从原料性质来看,可将川菜馆划分为素菜类(私房素菜、寺院素菜、民间素菜)和荤菜类(私家菜馆、风味菜馆、主题餐馆、普通酒肆)等等。从菜肴不同的功用来看,又将川菜馆划分为普通菜馆和保健菜馆;从地域角度来看,可将川菜馆划分为四大川菜流派,即川东菜、川南菜、川西和川北菜馆。它们都是在各个地域的内外经济文化交流长河中形成的,具有鲜明的地域文化特征。这里本人对传统川菜馆的基本风格作些简单介绍。要了解传统川菜馆的基本特色,首先就要了解川菜的饮食文化,四川的家常菜馆是在漫长的历史发展过程中形成的,它的突出表现就是有着极为鲜明的地方特色与基本风格,其主要表现在以下几个方面构成:
1.五味调和是四川传统川菜馆最大的特色:

 
                              <传统川菜馆大堂> 
   川菜食文化在烹调上无论是对品味的追求上,还是对菜肴的制作上都以五味调和为最高原则。五味调和的原则贯穿于川菜食文化整体之中,是川菜食文化的精髓。五味调和首先是满足人们饮食口味的需要和选择食品原料的要求。五味,是指甜、酸、苦、辣、咸;五味调和是指这五种口味既有变化,又能搭配合理,保持和发挥食物的本味或真味。五味调和还要合乎时序,对食品原料的选择,不同时令有不同侧重,《礼记•内则》中就有“凡和、春多酸、夏多苦、秋多辛、冬多咸,调以滑甘”的说法,强调既要满足人们的口感需要,又要与四时变化和人的生理需求和谐一致。五味调和也是对烹调过程的要求。《吕氏春秋•孝行览第二》曾描述过这一过程和要求:五味谁先放后放,如何掌握时机,放多放少,如何调配才能合适,都很有讲究。在烹调过程中,锅中异常微妙的变化难以用语言说明白,关键在于烹饪者把握适当的 “度”,使菜肴具有“久而不弊、熟而不烂、甘而不哝、酸而不酷”的上乘特色,其宗旨是将诸味中和成一协调的有机体。
2.崇尚调味喜食麻辣是川菜馆的第二大特色:
 
                                 <传统川菜馆大堂全景>
川菜,又称四川菜,以成都、重庆两地菜肴为代表,在我国享有崇高的声誉。川菜重视选料,规格讲究一致,分色配菜主次分明、鲜艳协调,自古有“尚滋味”、“好辛辣”的饮食传统。它的特点是:麻辣、鱼香、味浓、注重调味,离不开“三椒”即辣椒、胡椒、花椒和鲜姜,,以辣、酸、麻、香脍炙人口,,素来享有“一菜一格,百菜百味”的美名,地方风味十分浓郁,更有“食在中国,味在四川”的声誉。因此有人把传统川菜馆的特点归纳为“清鲜见长,麻辣见称”。川菜尤其是对其他菜系影响深远,如湘、鄂、黔、滇等菜系。川菜历史悠久,秦末汉初就已显露锋芒,现今川菜菜系的餐厅、饭馆已遍布世界各地。代表名菜有宫保鸡丁、回锅肉、鱼香肉丝、夫妻肺片、麻婆豆腐、灯影牛肉、鸳鸯火锅、干烧岩鲤、家常海参、锅巴肉片、干煸冬笋等40多味。其点心小吃有荷叶蒸饼、蒸蒸糕、蛋烘糕、鸡蛋熨斗糕、青城白果糕、崇庆冻糕、锅盔、宜宾燃面、龙抄手、红油水饺、玻璃烧卖、担担面、赖汤圆、芝麻圆子、广汉三和泥、川北凉粉、小笼蒸牛肉、顺庆羊肉粉等。
3.追求色、香、味、形、器、境有机统一的美食观:
 
                             《传统川菜馆大堂通道》 
    川菜的食文化具有很强的审美功能,不仅仅追求五味调和之美,还有对色、香、味、形、器、境综合之美的偏好,这是四川饮食文化的审美文化特性。四川烹饪素有“吃的艺术”、“吃的美学”之称。在四川饮食中把色、美、味、形、意是放在首位的,可见辨色对触动食欲的重要,孔子就提出“色恶不食”,菜肴色彩搭配组合的优劣往往是菜品成功与否的关键。菜肴的香气,能引发人们品评菜点的欲望和动机,同时香的感受能够加深和促进人们对色与形的审美愉悦。饮食中的愉悦以“味”为主体,与色、香、形、意结合的美味是川菜饮食审美感觉的高潮,“重味”同时也是川菜饮食文化区别于国内其他菜系饮食文化的主要特征之一。形美有助于饮食审美情调与氛围的营造。美味配美食,犹如琴瑟和鸣,相得益彰,相映成趣。境美,主要是指四川地区的各类川菜馆的优雅和谐的饮食空间环境和情感环境,它能使宴饮锦上添花,令人畅神悦情。而川菜馆所提供的菜品从色、香、味、形、器、境诸美的和谐统一,又使四川的川菜馆之饮食活动,不仅仅是满足了大众生理需求的行为,而且具有明显的审美欣赏、审美体验的价值,而烹饪与宴饮的设计与安排则有着艺术创造的意义。
4.共食同餐的进食方式是川菜馆最聚人气的景观:
 
                           《传统川菜馆大堂雅致的包房》 
 
 
                              《传统川菜馆大堂一角》
    四川人对待饮食,从来都不把它仅仅看作果腹的手段,而习惯于用它作为联络人与人感情的纽带。在进食方式上,多喜“共食”的方式。无论是婚、丧、嫁、娶,祝寿团聚。无疑与国内其他地区的“同吃一菜、共饮一汤”有所不同的。虽然“共餐”的吃法从卫生的角度而言是不科学的,但是四川人宴饮中的“共食”追求的则是一种人生境界。中国古代君王通过宴饮“以通上下之情”,藉以获得国家的长治久安;四川地区的民间宴饮则是通过吃吃喝喝联络朋友之间的感情、清除隔阂、和睦家庭、邻居相亲乃至民族团结。无论是文人墨客聚集的特色文化主题川菜馆之雅集宴饮的吟咏唱和,还是民间普通菜馆、酒肆游戏的相互争逐,在对不同口味菜肴的共同品尝中,在诗情画意的宴饮氛围中,达到人与自然、人与人之间和谐、共美的人生境界,这些是四川的川菜馆最大的共同特色与基本风格。

Sichuan Museum of the basic traditional style
                                                WANG Shi, Rong
Sichuan has long been the characteristics and style, all localities due to different selection of raw materials, ingredients, using different cooking methods, creating their own unique flavor and different schools of Sichuan. In different historical periods, according to different criteria, Sichuan can be divided into different genres. From the nature of the raw materials can be divided into Sichuan Museum vegetables category (Sifang vegetables, monasteries vegetables, civil vegetables) and Huncai category (private restaurant, restaurant style, theme restaurants, general Jiusi), and so on. Dishes from different functions, will Sichuan Museum is divided into a general restaurant and health care, restaurant and from the geographical point of view, the Sichuan Museum can be divided into four major schools of Sichuan, East Sichuan dishes, South Sichuan dishes, western Sichuan and northern Sichuan restaurant. They are all in various regions of the internal and external economic and cultural exchanges in the long process of the formation, with distinct geographical and cultural characteristics. I am here to the traditional Sichuan Museum of the basic style make some brief. To learn traditional Sichuan Museum of basic characteristics, we must first understand the food culture Sichuan, Sichuan dishes Museum in the long history of the development process of the formation, it is the outstanding performance has a very distinctive local characteristics and the basic style, and its main performance In the following areas constitute:
1. Wuwei to reconcile traditional Sichuan Sichuan is the largest museum features:
    Fresh culture in Sichuan cooking on whether the pursuit of taste, or the dishes on the production of Wuwei have to reconcile as the supreme principle. Wuwei to reconcile the principle runs through Sichuan food culture as a whole, Sichuan food is the essence of culture. Wuwei is to reconcile the first people to meet dietary needs and tastes of food choice of raw materials requirements. Wuwei, is sweet, sour, bitter, spicy, salty; Wuwei is to reconcile both the five tastes change, but also with a reasonable, maintain and give play to the taste of food or Zhenwei. Wuwei to reconcile with timing, the choice of food raw materials, have different emphasis on different season, "The Book of Rites • in the" out "and who, acid spring, summer and more bitter, more Xin autumn, winter and more salty, transferred to Waterloo willing ", stressed that it is necessary to meet the needs of the people's taste, but also with 4:00 change and people in harmony with the physical demands. Wuwei is to reconcile the demands of the cooking process. "Spring and Autumn • Lu laid on the second Xiaoxing," has described the process and requirements: Wuwei whoever release after release, how to grasp the opportunity to take more-less, how can we deploy the right, are very particular about. In the cooking process, the pot very subtle changes in language that difficult to understand, the key is to grasp the proper cooking of the "degree" so that the food had "a long time without disadvantages, rather than cooked Black, Gan without Nong, acid instead of Cool" excellent Characteristics, its purpose is to taste all in a coordinated and into the organisms.
2. Advocating seasoning preference Sichuan Mala is the second largest museum features:
Sichuan, also known as Sichuan cuisine, Chengdu, Chongqing dishes for the representatives of the two places in our country enjoys a high reputation. Sichuan attention to the election materials, specifications emphasize consistent, clear separation primary and secondary side dishes, bright coordination, since ancient times "still taste", "good spicy," the traditional diet. It is characterized by: Mala, Yuxiang, Weinong, pay attention to seasoning, inseparable from the "three-Law" that is, pepper, pepper, pepper and Xianjiang, a spicy, sour, Ma Tei, Hong Kong famous, and have always enjoyed the "one dish A grid, 100 dishes Click "credited, local flavor is very rich, more" food in China and taste in Sichuan "'s reputation. So it was the traditional characteristics of the Sichuan Museum summed up as "long-uncommon, see Mala said." Sichuan cuisine in particular to other far-reaching impact, such as Hunan, Hubei, Guizhou, Yunnan, and other cuisine. Sichuan has a long history, have been exposed Fengmang Qinmo early Han Dynasty, the present Sichuan cuisine restaurants, restaurants have been all over the world. Representative specializes in Gongbaojiding, Hui Guorou, Yuxiangrousi, Fuqifeipian, Ma Great tofu, beef Dengying, mandarin duck dishes, Ganshao Yan Lei, home-sea cucumbers, Guoba meat, dry winter bamboo shoots, etc. Bian more than 40 flavor. Its dim sum snacks Zhengbing a lotus leaf, steamed steamed puddings, eggs, baking cakes, eggs iron cakes, Qingcheng ginkgo cakes, Chongqing frozen cakes, Guokui, Yibin burning face, Chao Shou-long, oil dumplings, glass Shao Mai, Tam-Tam, Lai Tang Yuan, sesame maroon, Guanghan III and mud, North Sichuan jelly, small Longzheng beef, mutton Shunqing powder.
3. Pursuit of color, smell, taste, shape, and, throughout the organic unity of food
     Fresh Sichuan has strong aesthetic and cultural features, not only to reconcile the pursuit of the beauty of Wuwei, the color, smell, taste, shape, and, integrated throughout the United States preferred that this is the aesthetic of Sichuan food culture cultural identity. Sichuan cooking is known as "the art of eating", "eating the aesthetics," said. In Sichuan restaurants in the color, the United States, taste, shape, and Italy is the first place, that Bianse appetite to touch the importance of Confucius on the "bad color is not fresh," dishes the pros and cons of color combination is often successful dishes Whether or not the key. The aroma of food, can trigger people's evaluation dishes, the desire and motivation, and the feelings of Hong Kong to deepen and promote the color and shape of aesthetic pleasure. The pleasure of eating in the "flavor" as the mainstay, and the color, smell, shape, and Italy with the Sichuan food is delicious sense of the aesthetic climax, the "taste" food culture is also different from the Sichuan cuisine restaurants in other major characteristics of the culture 1. Help to shape the U.S. Food and aesthetic atmosphere to create the atmosphere. With delicious food, like Qinse and Wong, complement each other, Xiangyingchengqu. Throughout the United States, mainly refers to the various regions of Sichuan Sichuan Museum of elegant and harmonious eating space environment and emotional environment, it can banquet icing on the cake, it is God Cheong Yuet situation. And provided by the Museum of Sichuan dishes from the color, smell, taste, shape, and, throughout all the United States and the harmonious unity and the Sichuan Museum of Sichuan restaurants, not just to meet the physical needs of the public, but has obvious Aesthetic appreciation, the value of aesthetic experience, and the banquet cooking and the design and arrangement is the significance of artistic creation.
4. Meal with a total water consumption means the Sichuan Museum is the most-popular landscape
     Sichuanese treatment of diet, it is never merely as a means of Guofu, and are accustomed to it as a link to contact the feelings of the people. In the consumption of the way, and more-"total food" approach. Whether marriage, funerals, marriage, marry, birthday reunion. And no doubt other parts of the country "with an eating vegetables, soup Gongyin a" different. Although the "total meal" Chifa from the health point of view is unscientific, but Sichuanese banquet in the "total food" is the pursuit of a realm of life. China's ancient kings through the banquet "-from top to bottom of the situation" to obtain long-term stability of the country; Sichuan area of civil banquet eat drink is through the contact between the feelings of friends, remove misunderstanding, harmonious family, neighbours to each other and national unity. Whether Wenrenmoke gathered theme of the cultural characteristics of the Sichuan Museum of Yinyong U Cheng Nga Chap banquet chimed in, or civil general restaurant, Jiusi game-by-fight each other in the different tastes of the common dishes taste, in the idyllic atmosphere of the banquet, To man and nature, harmony between people, a total of U.S. realms of life, these are the Sichuan Museum in Sichuan's largest common characteristics and the basic style.
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Author private lawyers: This article only Phoenix site blog for free reading, WANG Shi Rong enjoy full copyright. The use of blog in the works to be agreed by WANG Shi Rong (see blog Contact Home), and pay the corresponding compensation. Unauthorized, and no unit or individual shall not be reproduced in any form, Kanyong, publishing the works. WANG Shi Rong keep illegal users of the right to pursue legal liability.

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